![]() Realistically, this is a last-ditch option, so don’t expect the numbers to be particularly accurate. ![]() If you have an unsupported trainer, Zwift will try to make a rough calculation based on your wheel speed. If you own a trainer that Zwift has tested (the full list of compatible trainers can be found on Zwift’s website) this can be a fairly accurate way of measuring power, but your in-game wattage will be capped at 1,200 watts. The first way is for Zwift to use the known power curve of your turbo trainer. If you are just using a speed/cadence sensor and a non-smart trainer or rollers, then Zwift has two methods of calculating virtual watts. Something like Wahoo’s RPM Speed and Cadence Cycle Sensors is what you’re looking for, but any Bluetooth or ANT+ speed sensor should work. Those without a power measurement tool will need a speed/cadence measurement device instead. It is worth noting that if you’re using an iOS device, then connecting via Bluetooth is your only option at this point. Of course, this means missing out on things such as simulated gradient changes, drafting and ERG mode, but it’s a workable option in a pinch. If you currently own an ANT+ or Bluetooth-compatible measurement tool, such as a modern power meter, Zwift can use the data from that device to power your on-screen avatar. The cheapest Zwift trainer, therefore, might just be the one you already have. We’d recommend starting with a wheel-on smart trainer if you’re on a budget, as detailed above, but any standard, non-smart turbo trainer can be used with Zwift, as long as you have a few accessories. It’s also worth noting that, while both of these trainers can technically only simulate gradients up to 6 per cent, Zwift’s default trainer difficulty is set at 50 per cent, meaning you won’t actually max out the trainer’s resistance until you hit a 12 per cent gradient in the game.Ī basic Zwift setup can be cobbled together from a few bits of kit that many cyclists will already own. While that may be important if you’re embarking on serious training or virtual racing, for riders on a budget wanting to explore Zwift’s features, the accuracy on offer here is absolutely fine. While its construction quality doesn’t quite stand up to that of the Tacx Flow Smart, and it has a lower maximum power output (660 watts versus the Tacx Flow Smart’s 800 watts), it nevertheless takes full advantage of all of Zwift’s immersive features.īoth the Tacx Flow Smart and Elite Novo Smart offer claimed power accuracy of +/- 5 per cent.Īs you spend more, the power accuracy of a smart trainer will improve. Simon Bromley / Immediate MediaĪlternatively, an even cheaper option is the Elite Novo Smart (RRP £259 / $350). ![]() Its slight size and featherweight design make it an excellent hub for tossing in a bag and taking to a friend's house.The Elite Novo Smart is another good budget-priced option. RREAKA USB Type C to HDMI Digital AV Multiport HubĪ multipurpose travel docking station that handles the Nintendo Switch as well as mobile phones, tablets, and travel TVs. Here's a look at two of the best choices. Some are completely incompatible, while others don't support 4K. Not all of these are suitable for the Nintendo Switch. Which Switch-compatible USB-C to HDMI adapters should you use? The device you're looking for should have:Ī ton of options are available online. Nintendo Switch Compatible USB-C to HDMI Adapters You need to make sure you have an adapter that is compatible with the Nintendo Switch. However, it won't work with all USB-C to HDMI adapters. There should be absolutely no difference to the experience, other than the absence of the Nintendo Switch dock.Īs you can see, this is a relatively straightforward process. You can use the Joy-Cons individually, connected to the Joy-Con Grip, or use a Switch Pro Controller, just as you would normally.
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